A Guide to Semuc Champey, Guatemala

Semuc Champey was possibly my favourite thing I saw in Guatemala, it’s famous for the cascading turquoise pools which are breathtaking under the glistening sun. It’s a national park that is packed with dense forest, sweeping valleys, swimming spots, caves and absolutely gorgeous viewpoints.

Most people opt to stay in or around a close-by town called Lanquin, however with recent times there are more accommodation options popping up closer to Semuc Champey, but wherever you stay you’ll end up on the shuttle to Lanquin.

How to Get to Lanquin/Semuc Champey

Now if anyone tells you there’s a quick way to get to Lanquin they are lying, unless well you take a helicopter. The roads aren’t great and add the hills and steep turns to that, and you’re looking at a long time sitting on a bus, but I think it’s more than worth it. 

We came from Flores and that took around 8 hours, we opted for a shuttle which we booked through our hostel Don Cebio. Quick side note, I don’t recommend booking at Don Cebio, we paid 250Q each and we later found out Los Amigos hostel was offering this shuttle for 200Q, this was our lesson to always shop around for the best price.

If you’re coming from Antigua I think the bus is also around 8 hours, if you’re coming from Lake Atitlan however expect it to take around 11 hours plus. There are also shuttle options from Rio Dulce, Guatemala City and more. A great thing about the shuttles is most stop in the town of Coban and guess what you will find there…. McDonald’s, I know it’s some people’s ideas of hell, but for me, after a long day on a bus, it was the perfect pick me up I needed.

I do recommend a shuttle over public transport, mainly because of the length of the journey. If you opt for chicken buses you will be having to change buses A LOT and transport doesn’t really run to a schedule in Guatemala so you would have to be prepared for the journey to take more than one day. It’s also considered a lot safer for tourists to stick to shuttles but if you’re wanting an authentic and cheap option chicken buses is the way to go. 

You will find most shuttles will drop you off at a gas station just outside of a town and from there most accommodations will come to pick you up in pickup trucks, just make sure to communicate with your hostel/hotel ahead of time.

A Guide to Semuc Champey on a Budget

We got transport and spent the day at Semuc Champey for 200Q (£21.05) for both Josh and me, I think that was pretty budget-friendly. The hostel we were staying at was offering a tour that would have cost us 480Q (£50), granted that included a tour through the Kan’Ba Caves, (I explain later why we didn’t do these) but we definitely mastered the budget travelling this day.

We were staying close to the town of Lanquin and even though Semuc Champey is only 11km away, it’s about an hour’s journey due to the conditions of the roads. There are so many collectivos and vehicles willing to take you from Lanquin to Semuc Champey we had barely walked out of a hostel before we found a ride. If you don’t get as lucky as us however I recommend heading to the main crossroads in town you’ll certainly find an option there.

The great thing about this journey is the price is fixed for tourists, I didn’t find or talk to anyone who got scammed with prices on the transport. It’s 25Q (£2.63) each way and per person, so if someone asks for more for the transport find another option. 

You will most likely be standing in the back of a pickup truck for the ride to Semuc, which is quite an experience in itself. I won’t sugarcoat it the drive is extremely bumpy and at times very uncomfortable, I’m really selling this well aren’t I? But….. the views are a 10 out of 10. The drive that winds around the hills of coffee plantations and rich greenery is one not to miss for sure. So to make the journey more bearable just focus on those unreal views.

When you actually arrive you will have to pay a 50Q (£5.26) entrance fee per person and give some details such as your name and nationality. And then the magic begins…..

What to Do at Semuc Champey

Partially what you will do when you arrive at Semuc Champey is gawp in amazement, but when you finally peel your eyes away from the gorgeous surroundings there is some exploring to do.

Hike to the Viewpoint

You know that one photo you have seen on everyones Instagram from Semuc Champey chances are the photo was taken from this viewpoint. To get there you’ll take about a 45-minute hike through the trees. The path starts off with a walkway and some stairs before you get to some more mud track-like paths heading up. It’s a little slippy so I would suggest a good pair of shoes, Josh did it in his sliders and really regretted it.

On the hike, you will come across a few people selling different snacks like fruits or coconuts, so why not try a refreshing coconut on the way back down.

Explore the Kan’Ba Caves

In order to explore the caves you MUST have a guide, it would be too difficult and dangerous to try to navigate them alone. For this reason, I recommend booking a tour through your accommodation or a tour company if you want to explore the caves.

Expect to wade through water with a candle in hand in pitch black, squeezing through tiny spaces and dodging the hanging rocks. Personally, for me, this sounded like actual hell so we opted not to do this.

However many people in our hostel loved this experience, so if you’re not a claustrophobe like me, it is a pretty unique experience. Just be careful and follow the instructions from the guide we did hear of a few small but nasty injuries.

Swim in the Pools

The turquoise pools glimmer in the sunshine and you will struggle to walk past them without wanting to take a dip. We spent most of our time paddling and chilling around the stunning pools. The pools towards the top aren’t that deep so you can just wade around and relax but as you go further down, you’ll find they get deeper and people will be jumping or even sliding into them.

Now time to discuss that rumour you will undoubtedly hear if you backpack in Guatemala or nearby countries. Will you get sick from swimming in the water at Semuc Champey? Neither Josh nor I got sick after visiting, but plenty of people will tell you they did. After hearing all these stories we decided to just not put our heads underwater.

Do I think this is why we didn’t get sick? To be honest, I’m not too sure, this strange bug people seem to catch when visiting might not even be from the water itself, I’ve heard people say it might be local food hygiene standards. There really is no telling, but I say take the precautions you feel comfortable with and make sure you have some medicine for an upset stomach just in case. I really wouldn’t let this put you off visiting however, it’s an absolutely stunning destination and one person’s horror story is another person’s fairytale.

Tips for Visiting Semuc Champey

• There are lockers if you wish to lock your valuables away whilst you are swimming, just note you will need to bring your own padlock.
• Whilst we were walking up to the viewpoint we actually spotted quite a few monkeys swinging from tree to tree, so make sure to keep your eyes peeled.
• Everything is paid for in cash, so make sure you have some on you. This goes for Lanquin too, there is an ATM but I wouldn’t rely on it to always work.
• I always recommend a dry bag for activities that involve water and Semuc Champey is no different, especially if you are exploring the caves.
• There isn’t much in the way of food once inside Semuc Champey National Park so bring plenty of snacks and water.

Things to do in Lanquin

To be honest there aren’t many things to do in Lanquin and for that reason, most people don’t hang around too long after visiting Semuc Champey. But if you do find yourself with some time to kill in Lanquin here are a few options:

Our hostel (Zephyr Lodge) offered a tubing tour on the river in Lanquin for 90Q (£9.44). It was also possible to do this at Semuc Champey but if you’re staying in Lanquin it’s less of a hike to do it nearby.

If you find yourself in the need of some great freshly cooked food in Lanquin you have to head to Zen Bistro. Not only was it some of the best food I have ever eaten, the owner Mike was so welcoming and even gave Josh a demonstration on how to cook the meal. 

You could also stroll around the town of Lanquin, I’ll be honest there isn’t a lot to see but you will find a market within the small town if you need some souvenirs or just fancy a mooch.

As you can tell outside of exploring Semuc Champey, Lanquin doesn’t really have that much else to offer and that’s why I think picking the right accommodation is crucial, which leads us on perfectly to the next topic.

Accommodation around Semuc Champey

As I have mentioned before a lot of the accommodation is in or around Lanquin, but there are now a few more hostels and eco-lodges popping up within Semuc Champey. Wherever you end up choosing know that facilities will most likely be basic, but you’ll be surrounded by incredible views of forest and mountains so don’t be surprised if you come across a bug or two.

We stayed at Zephyr Lodge which is notorious among backpackers, would I recommend it? The short answer is no, but I will admit it served a purpose and we met some lovely people staying there. You can find my full review of Zephyr Lodge here.

I heard a lot of good things about Greengos hostel which is based much nearer Semuc Champey, than Lanquin but they will send a vehicle to pick you up from your shuttle free of charge. Also if your budget is a little higher and you’re looking to connect with nature even more, Utopia Eco Hotel is a fantastic choice with beautiful cabins just steps away from Semuc Champey.

When choosing your accommodation I would factor in a rest day, because the journey is so long to get here and the same for your onward destination. Personally, I would say 3 nights is a perfect amount of time. So look for accommodation that has good chill-out areas and unreal views.

Visiting Semuc Champey was my favourite day in the whole month and a half while I was in Guatemala. It’s an absolute natural wonder and a must-see when you are in Guatemala, so I hope this guide convinced you of that. 

If you have been to Semuc Champey I would love to know about your experience in the comments below!

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All currency exchange rates were correct as of Jan 2023.