Ultimate Travel Guide: Medellin, Colombia

Medellin has gone from Colombia’s most dangerous city to one of the most visited cities in Colombia. As the amount of tourists visiting the city has grown exponentially over the past few years, such a drastic change makes for a lot of intrigue.

During our travels throughout Latin America, Medellin was probably one of the most hyped-up destinations, with people constantly singing the city’s praises. This made me slightly unsure of what to expect as sometimes when something is hyped so much, it’s hard to live up to expectations.

Do I think Medellin deserves all the hype, I don’t know, but it certainly met the high expectations everyone set. There is plenty to see and do and even more to learn about, it’s also a city that’s easy to get around and if you like a party, I don’t think you will ever leave.

So, let’s get to the nitty-gritty information that you will need to visit the lively and proud Medellin, Colombia.

Getting Around Medellin

Medellin has the best best public transportation system of all the cities I visited in Colombia and rightfully so the people of Medellin are very proud of their Metro. It’s a very efficient and affordable system that is also perfectly accessible to tourists. It’s mostly made up of trains but also links neighbourhoods higher up in the valley by cable car. 

You’ll need to get a Civica card to use the metro and you can do this by visiting one of the ticket offices at nearly any station. It’s just a rechargeable card you use at the gates, the journeys usually cost around 3000 COP. The metro does get super busy at regular rush hours, 8-9 in the morning and 5-7 in the evenings, so be prepared to be squished to an inch of your life.

Uber is also active in Medellin and another way to get around the city and I would recommend using it if you are travelling late at night or too somewhere not near a metro station. Journeys are super affordable and it gives you an extra layer of safety than a standard taxi. We also used Uber to get to and from the airport as you can’t reach it on the metro. Just note this trip is a little more costly than other journeys, it’s around £20 to or from the airport.

Safety in Medellin

As always I can’t speak for everyone’s experiences, but from my experience, Medellin is a perfectly safe city. As a tourist just like in every city, you’re a bit more of a target for crimes like pickpocketing and petty theft. This means just like anywhere in the world it’s best not to flash valuables and try to keep them close to you.

Another caveat is I did not spend any time enjoying the very popular Medellin party scene. When hearing about scams, robberies or attacks on tourists, 95% of the stories began with “I went on a night out then .”. This by no means you shouldn’t go out and enjoy yourself, just please avoid walking the streets at night after a few drinks, whether you are in a group or alone the same applies. Uber is so affordable in Medellin so just use it!

Weather in Medellín

The climate in Medellin is often referred to as an ‘eternal spring’ and that is exactly what we experienced whilst there between April and May. You’ll find temperatures stay in the mid to low 20s (celsius) nearly all year round, the summer months in Medellin are December through to March.

I’ve read online a few times that April-May and September-October are the months that see the most rainfall. We spent just short of a month in Medellin over April and May and although it did rain most days, it was only for about an hour or two in the late afternoon, so don’t let it put you off.

During our time in Medellin, we would often see lightning in the distance and up in the mountains, but the storm would rarely come through the city. As a lightning lover, it was fun to watch.

Where to Stay in Medellin

From my experience, there are two areas which are most popular to stay in whilst visiting Medellin, Poblado and Laurels. Both are great and given how easy it is to get around the city, I don’t think it matters which you choose, it will just depend on your travel style. 

Poblado

Poblado is in the southeast of the city and you will find this area is catered the most towards tourists in all of Medellin. If you ask most tourists where they stayed in Medellin, it’s likely to be Poblado. With buzzing streets full of restaurants and bars, you’ll find it can get pretty lively here into the evening, so if you like a party head to Parque Lleras.

You’ll find a major range of accommodation here from hostels to high-end hotels, however as this is a popular area you’ll be paying a higher price to stay here. As a first-time visitor, Poblado is a great neighbourhood to base yourself on and perfect for a short stay.

Find accommodation options in Poblado here ——>

Laurels

On the northwest side of the city, you’ll find Laurels, a peaceful neighbourhood with plenty of green spaces, cafes, shops and co-working spots. Although you’ll find a bigger nightlife scene in Poblado, Laurels still has plenty going on and if you want to party head to Carrera 70. Laurels is also home to a few stadiums which regularly hold football matches, other sporting events and concerts.

I think Laurels is the perfect neighbourhood to stay in Medellin if you’re looking for a slightly quieter trip or you are staying in the city for longer than just a short holiday, in my opinion, it’s a very liveable neighbourhood.

I recommend staying at Casa Santafé in Laurels ——>

There is also a less popular 3rd option which is to stay in the El Centro (downtown) area of Medellin, this is where a lot of historical sites are. There’s a lot of magical chaos in this part of town as is very much the centre of the city for locals. Some may find it a little too rough around the edges to stay here but it totally depends on your preferences.

Things to do in Medellin

Visit Comuna 13

Comuna 13 started as an illegal settlement above Medellin after people were driven to the city, seeking refuge from the violence in the countryside. Unfortunately, the area became a home also to narcotics cartels and guerrilla groups and it became one of the most dangerous areas in the world. Killings every day meant this neighbourhood became as dangerous as a battlefield.

But it isn’t all doom and gloom here, in the past 20 years Comuna 13 has transformed into a popular tourist spot and a much safer neighbourhood. Nowadays the Comuna has come to life with street art, cafes, outdoor escalators, viewpoints, street dancers and so much more.

In my opinion, the best way to explore the neighbourhood is by taking a walking tour. Zippy Tours offers daily tours around Comuna 13 with local guides able to give you a better insight into this neighbourhood’s drastic change. Just make sure to leave a bit of time after the tour to explore on your own.

Catch a Football Match

This is a must-do in my opinion, the atmosphere at the games is truly something. Songs are echoed around the stadium, banners are proudly hung up, fans will be energetically cheering their team and most importantly you won’t leave without a massive smile on your face.

You’ll find two football teams in Medellin, Independiente Medellin (DIM) and Atletico Nacional both of who play at Estadio Atanasio Girardot in Laurels. The station is located close by to the metro station ‘Estadio’ making it easily accessible by public transport.

If you happen to be in town for the ‘El Classico’ the derby between DIM and Atletico Nacional you will be in for a wild ride, the fans or ‘hinchas’ get a little extra spirited during this game. 

Although you can opt to join a tour to see a football match this can be pricey, another way is to buy tickets outside of the stadium on game day. Or to guarantee yourself a spot you can use the DIM app to buy your tickets, but this only works for Independiente Medellin games.

Relax in the Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Gardens in Medellin are free to enter and just a stone’s throw from the ‘Universidad’ metro station. It’s a lovely place to stroll around, relax and have a picnic in the park, you may even be joined by some reptile friends.

View the Sculptures at Botero Plaza

Fernando Botero is a famous Colombian artist that was born in Medellin, known best for his exaggerated and larger-than-life paintings and sculptures. And some of those sculptures you will find on display in Botero Plaza for free, they are unusual sure but endearing at the same time. The closest metro station is Parque Berrio in Medellin’s city centre.

Take a Walking Tour of Downtown Medellin

This is a great way to learn about Medellin’s past, present and future. These tours will likely start in the aforementioned Botero Plaza and will take you around the ‘El Centro’ area of Medellin. This area was described to me by our tour guide as the place locals come to find anything they need and is the essence of Medellin. You’ll see countless market stalls, food vendors and shops, this is an area of Medellin that is overflowing with character. Discover the walking tour we did with Beyond Colombia here —>

Visit the Museums of Medellin

Visiting local museums can be a great way to understand different aspects of a destination and a great activity to keep up the sleeve for rainy days. Here’s a little breakdown of 3 of Medellin’s most popular museums:

Casa de la Memoria- It’s no secret Medellin used to be a dangerous and violent city and this museum is a place you can go to understand more about the past. You’ll hear stories about the violence from different perspectives, through videos, photos and artefacts. If you have time, this is a must-visit in Medellin and it’s free to enter.

Museo de Antioquia- Located just off the aforementioned Botero Square, it’s an art museum celebrating local artists Fernando Botero and Pedro Nel Gómez. Personally for me after visiting the Botero Museum in Bogota, this was enjoyable but not a must-do. You’ll find it’s open between 10-5 Mon-Sat and entrance costs 24,000 COP for foreigners.

Parque Explora- Now this is the museum to go to if you fancy a fun yet informative day out, I loved it here. With so many interactive activities from brain training style games, music studios and even the chance to star in your own film you won’t be bored here. This science museum is open 10-5 daily and tickets cost 42,000 COP.

Take Spanish Lessons

There are so many opportunities to learn Spanish in Medellin and as the official language of Colombia, having a basic understanding is key to an amazing adventure in Colombia. With many options of schools, programs and intensity of lessons in Medellin, it’s the perfect city to ‘practica tu Español’.

Go Paragliding

This is for anyone seeking a bit more adventure from Medellin, personally, I chickened out of this one, but Josh loved it. Soaring above will give you some incredible views of the valley Medellin lies in and its surrounding as well as a big adrenaline rush. Josh went with Dream Flying Paragliding and had nothing but great things to say about them.

Take a Cable Car Ride

Now if you still want to get those views above Medellin without flying through the sky, why not hop on one of Medellin’s 6 cable cars? These cable cars were built in order to ease access for people living in steep neighbourhoods, improving their social access. For some people what used to be a 2/3 hour walk can now be accessed in 30 minutes by Medellin’s public transport.

To discover information about the different cable car lines, check out this fantastic guide by Real City Tours.

Thoughts on Pablo Escobar Tourism– My opinion on this is I wouldn’t personally opt for a Pablo Escobar tour of Medellin. However, I know many people find him intriguing. My understanding is most locals in Medellin are either indifferent about him or won’t even mention his name. There is one neighbourhood, Comuna 9, where you will find he is highly praised. With murals and celebrations of him around the Comuna due to the fact he provided housing to those who needed it. One of our walking tour guides said it perfectly, there is nothing wrong with wanting to know more about Pablo Escobar, but if you are going to take the time to learn about him, learn about the damage he caused too.

Cafes in Medellín

Medellin has a fabulous cafe culture scene. You are literally spoilt for options all around the city, so here are a few of my favourites:

Pergamino was where I found myself the most and they have different locations throughout Medellin. I preferred the one in Laurels as it could get extremely busy in Poblado. The great coffee, delicious snacks and reliable wifi made it the perfect spot to get some work done.

Santa Leña is a lovely bakery/cafe in Laurels, come here for a freshly baked pastry with your morning coffee.

Delmuri Cafe was another spot we frequented in Laurels. You’ll find comfy coffee shop vibes here perfect for reading with a great coffee in hand.

Azul Selva you will find in the Poblado neighbourhood, this spot is a little more upmarket. Comparable to the Alchemist in the UK but for fancy coffees.

Al Alma is another super popular spot with locations all around Medellin. The coffee is fabulous here but this spot is very popular for a delicious breakfast/brunch menu.

Not the biggest foodie in the world but here is a few restaurant recommendations:

• La Cruda– a Mexican restaurant located in the heart of Poblado with great vibes.
• Crepes and Waffles– a popular Colombian chain restaurant, perfect for brunch or dessert.
• El Mercado del Rio– a hall full of food stands serving cuisines from all over the world.

Overnight Trips from Medellin

Medellin is located in the Antioquia department of Colombia, which is home to many fantastic destinations. So when it’s time to get out of the city for a weekend, here are a few of my recommendations.

Guatape

Guatape is a bright and spirited town located not far from the city of Medellin, making it very popular with visitors. The town is located on the shores of the Peñol-Guatapé Reservoir and the breathtaking views of these meandering blue waterways can be seen from the Piedra del Peñol which is the reason most choose to visit the town of Guatape. Although Guatape can be visited on a day trip from Medellin, I recommend staying a night or two.

Read more about Guatape here —>

Jardin

You’ll find Jardin hidden away in the valleys of Antioquia, a puebla around 4 hours outside of Medellin. This small town holds so much charm, from its well-preserved colonial architecture to fantastic coffee there is plenty to see and do without even leaving the town. However, it would be a shame to visit and not explore the surrounding countryside with plenty of walking trails, waterfalls, viewpoints, and a coffee farm or two.

Read more about Jardin here —>

Jerico

You’ll find the town of Jerico in the midst of Antioquia’s valleys and only a 3-hour bus ride from Medellin. This quaint and colourful town is the perfect escape into the Colombian countryside the roads are lined with vibrant colonial architecture and striking views of the nearby mountains. It’s a town I believe to be well worth a visit whilst exploring the coffee region of Colombia.

Read more about Jerico here —>

One thing that I kept observing in Medellin is how proud people are to say they are from Medellin and that it’s the best place in all of Colombia. And this isn’t just something you hear in the city, you will hear this in all of Colombia and even in nearby countries. I did admire the local’s enthusiasm about their city, but it did start to create a narrative that Medellin and its department Antioquia were in ways separate from or better than the rest of Colombia, which I don’t necessarily agree with.

You can tell the city has a different feel to the likes of Bogota, I think maybe after Medellin’s recent dark history, the city and its people like to focus on the good. So Medellin’s big party scene and just in the general fun atmosphere may come from a place of celebration of change, whereas the likes of Bogota can feel pretty political with street art murals and protests making statements. It’s worth noting this is just the impression I got as a foreign tourist who spent 2 months in Colombia and these are just observations I made.

Medellin plays such a big part in Colombia’s recent boom in tourism over the last decade and for good reason. It would be a mistake to visit Colombia without stopping in Medellin and making your own opinion of the much-hyped city.

If you have thoughts on Medellin, Colombia let me know in the comments.

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